Now I set up the router table and slot cutter.
After I had adjusted the bit for height I brought the fence out in front of the bit and clamped a piece of 1/4" ply to it so I could make a zero clearance fence. Note the lines on the table insert (the orange disk in photo below). Those lines mark the outer perimeter of the bit. I had the split fence separated to the edge of the insert. The lines help me keep from accidentally cutting into the split fence. Now I turn the router on and slowly push the fence into the bit. This bit has 5/8" clearance from the outside of the cutters to the shank so I pushed it all the way to the shank and then backed off just a hair, giving me a 3/8" deep groove.
Click the photo to see it larger.
The lines on the fence itself identify the edge of the bit and help me to start and end the cut. The groove is started and stopped in the mortise.
After running the test piece I was very pleased with the results so I ran all the legs. I then went to the bandsaw, set up with a 1/4" 6 tpi blade and freehand sawed to the line of the foot profile. This doesn't leave a finished cut by any means so now it's time for some hand powered fun.
Clamped in the vise, the leg curve is faired out with my spokeshave and smoothing plane. The leg in the photo below still has some saw cuts to remove but it is coming along nicely. Each curve takes about 3 minutes to smooth.
Well, the legs are pretty much done now except for finish planing and notching for the floor. I will do that after I have completed the frame pieces. Next, I make the mortises, grooves, and tenons in the rails.
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